The Tâmega rises in Galicia and flows south through Portugal for around 145 kilometres before joining the Douro near Marco de Canaveses. Along the way it passes through contrasting landscapes — the broad basin of Chaves, the mountains of Mondim de Basto, and the narrowing valley that leads to Amarante — and creates river beaches that are as different from each other as the towns they flow through.
Chaves — Roman bridge, thermal spas, river beach
Chaves is a border town with a remarkable history. Its 1st-century Roman bridge — 140 metres long with 16 arches — is one of the finest preserved Roman monuments in Portugal. The town's thermal waters, the second richest in carbonic acid in Europe, have attracted visitors for two thousand years. The river beach lies on the calm meanders of the Tâmega beside the town. Don't leave without trying the presunto de Chaves (cured ham) and the local Chaves DOC Alvarinho wines — more structured than the Minho versions.
Mondim de Basto — mountain cold and crystal water
Halfway between Chaves and Amarante, Mondim de Basto sits at the foot of the Serra do Alvão Natural Park. The Rio Cabril, a Tâmega tributary descending from the mountains, keeps the Mondim de Basto river beach noticeably cold even in August — a refreshing shock on hot summer days. Combine the beach with a hike to the Serra do Alvão summit at Senhora da Graça for panoramic views over northern Portugal.
Amarante — baroque bridge, custard tarts, golden sand
Amarante is, for many, the most beautiful town in northern Portugal. The historic centre overlooking the Tâmega — with the baroque São Gonçalo church and bridge, the stone balconies and the noble houses — is one of the most photographed in the country. The Tâmega runs slow and golden under the bridge, reflecting the church facade in a mirror of water that, at the right hour, is almost unreal. The river beach sits directly below the historic bridge — golden sand, unique setting, no parallel in Portugal. After swimming, the bolos de São Gonçalo and pastéis de Amarante in any of the town's pastry shops are mandatory.
Practical information
- Total distance: ~130 km from Chaves to Amarante
- Suggested duration: Two days with an overnight in Mondim or Amarante
- Best months: June to September for swimming; year-round for culture
- From Porto: Amarante is ~60 km via the A4; Chaves is ~180 km via the A24
